To turn the soil over, a spading fork is usually belter than a round-pointed shovel, chough both are adequate.

To spade, dig a trench about the deptli of the shovel blade or fork tines {itie depth to which you can easily plunge a spade), t he dirt ting out is put in the wheelbarrow and wheeled lo the ether end of the plot to be spaded. It will be used to fill in the last trend',.

To spade, diq a trench about the depth of the shovel blade, pul I'ne dirl in a wheelbarrow, find save il to fill in the trench left after spading.

Next, simply dig another trench next to the first one. turning the dirt a spadeful at a time, upside down into that first trench. Tip the spadeful of dirt on its side rather than completely upside down. That leaves the plant residue» and other organic matter that were on the soil surface at varying depths of the spaded dirt rather than buried completely at the bottom of the trcnch. The organic matter will rot faster that way-

Proceed across the garden in the same fashion, spading, turning, spading, turning, Don't be in a hurry and take too big a bite. Take care to keep the spading side of the trench straight up and down, hi sod. the grass mat on top of the soil will make spading more difficult. When grass is still attached to unspaded sod by the roots, use a round-pointed shovel rather than a spading fork; the shovel will cleave the roots better. At the edges of the sod plot to be spaded, mark a line and then go along the length of that line with the shovel, jamming it down about four inches to slice through the grass roots. Then while spading, the shovelful „long the edge will lift out easily. This will also clearly mark the edge of the area to be spaded.

Triple spading is the ideal: the garden noil is carefully spaded and mixed. 7he top layer (A) is removed from blochs 1 arid 2 and saved for eventual use in blocks ¡1 and /2. Soil is next removed from block Hi and saved for tee in block 12H. Xext, ¡C is spaded to loosen and turn the soil, 211 is moved to cover il, and ?.-! ii used to top off black I. The sequence continues until the entire garden has been spaded. The process is laborious, and in practice is seldom done.

When the soil is turned over, give each s^atleftil a whack to crumble it, or stick the shovel or fork into it and twist. Either maneuver breaks up the cJod a little and leaves the surface loose and triable.

If you are spading in the fall or early winter, leave the surface tough after spading. As is true with fall plowing, the rough soil surface will absorb and hold more water through winter and freezes will mellow it better. The soil will also dry otr faster in spring. Work the surface as soon

When you're talking about ■working in the garden, il all come.1! down to how muck strain you put on your back.

Here we-see a Bulldog spading fprk in the foreground ¿and astandard spadingjfjprk in. the rear. Notice how when the fronts of the tines are even, and the pivot points the same, the Bulldog gives you a full eight inckes less bend to do the same work, Multiply that eight inches across a 25-by-25-foot garden, and you've saved yourself some mighty sore muscles.

as yuti can after spading, in spring or early summer, so that finer soil on the surface will hold soil moisture. Don't work the soil deeply, though, as that will only drag sod ov other plant residues already spaded under hack on top of the ground.

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  • Medardo
    What is Spading blocks?
    3 years ago

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