Combined with the shaving horse, the drawknife lets you put all the strength of your arms, legs, and back into long strokes with a razor-sharp blade. The handles that you use to pull the knife along the surface also give you precise control over the angle of the blade, allowing you to cut deeply or finely. The drawknife is still a free and open blade, often taking a middle role in creating a shape — the piece first being chopped, then drawknifed, then planed to final smoothness. The work goes quickly. Sitting on a shaving horse with a good drawknife in your hands, you can get to talking with someone, look down, and find that you've made a chair by mistake.

Unlike pocketknives with two equal bevels, and unlike chisels with one flat and one beveled edge, drawknives often split the difference. The upper side of the blade may have the only visible bevel, but the apparently flat side often carries a slight bevel — just enough to give you some depth control. New drawknives are often dead flat on one side, and when the flat is against the wood, you have control only when cutting convex surfaces. Flip the drawknife over to cut with the bevel down, and you again have control over the depth of cut. Drawknives are so different in their bevels, curvature, and handle angles that you need to get to know them individually.

If you hold it diagonally to the direction of the pull, any drawknife can work with a

Shaving horse legs: 2" x 2" x ig" plank: 3" x g" x 60" ramp: 11/2" x g" x30" support: 6" high clamp overall: 31" long head: 6" x 6" arm: 2" x 3"

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