Carpentry Apron

CARPENTRY APRON

Denim or ticking is the material most commonly used. An apron of this size requires about 1% yards. No. 40 thread may be used, and the sewing machine should be set so as to make ten or twelve stitches to the inch.

. Cut the apron to the measurements called for in the drawing. The measurements given in the drawing are for the finished apron and therefore %" must be allowed on all edges to make a 1/4" hem. «

When dividing the apron at the bottom do not take a piece out, simply cut the slash the given length.

Turn and baste a 1/4" hem around the apron. As the hem is basted, slip the unfinished end of a strap under the hem at the correct place so that, when the hem is stitched, the strap is also stitched into place. Reinforce the corner of the slash at the bottom by facing it in a slight curve with a bias piece of material or by facing it with a shaped piece. Stitch the hem in place.

Bring the straps up at right angles to the edge of the apron and fasten them to the outer edge.

Press the apron.

Cut and hem the pockets. Crease a -^4" turn around the unfinished edges. Press them and sew them in place.

FARM WOODWORK

NAIL AND STAPLE BOX

Material Required

1 piece of any soft wood I"x9&"xl4y2". 1 piece of any soft wood ^"xl0"x26". 1 piece hard wood %"x%"xll%".

Hardware

2 flat head bright wood screws 1%" No. 10.

32 5d finishing nails. 2 1" No. 16 brads.

Stock Bill

Pieces

Dimensions %"x9"x7"

%"x4-15/32"xl0%" %"x5fkxl0%"

^'"x3tt"x3-25/32" round xll"

Use Ends Sides Bottom Partition Cross Partitions Handle

Directions

1. Reduce all pieces to finished dimensions.

2. Lay out an end piece by drawing a line across each edge 4" from the bottom end and two lines across the bottom end 1 from edge. Connect lines across edges with lines across ends. Draw a center line lengthwise of stock on each side. At a point on center line on one side, %" from the top, bore a hole deep to receive handle. At a point on the centerline on the opposite side of the stock from end, swing an arc with a radius.

Draw lines on both sides of the stock from the lines across the edges tangent to the arc.

Remove stock to lines with the saw and smooth with the plane.

Smooth the rounding end of the stock with the chisel.

3. With the T bevel set at 12" on the beam and 4i/2" on the blade of the steel square lay out the bevels at the bottom edges of the sides, and both edges of the bottom and remove stock to line with plane.

4. With the T bevel set as above, lay off the slant for the cross partitions and remove the stock with the saw.

5. Take the square piece of hardwood and at each end lay out an octagon as shown in the detail drawing, mark off the octagonal lines on the sides of the stock and remove the stock to lines with the plane. Continue rounding the stock by planing the corners.

6. Assemble the box by placing the handle in position and securing it with one 1%" No. 10 flat head wood screw at each end and then fastening the sides to the ends by using three 5d finishing nails at each end of each piece spaced as shown in the drawing.

7. Place the box on the bench and lay the bottom in place, securing it with two 5d, finishing nails at each end.

8. On the centerlines which are at the ends of the end pieces, drive two 5d nails to hold the partition in place. Fasten the partition to the bottom by driving four nails into the partition from the bottom of the box.

9. The cross partitions are fastened by use of three nails thru the side of the box and one from the bottom. A 1" brad is used to toenail it to the long partition.

10. Finish by applying two coats of paint, allowing the first coat several days to dry before the second coat is applied.

FOLDING BENCH

Stock Bill

Pieces Dimensions Use

4 %"x2*4"x4'0" Platform

4 %"x2tt"x20K" Legs

Hardware: 28 flat head wood screws 2W No. 10.

4 machine bolts % "x3" with two washers for each bolt.

Directions

Cypress lumber is desirable as it is not affected as much as most other soft woods by the constant drying and wetting which the bench is subjected to.

MITER BOX

WASTE BASKET

Bottom

MITER BOX

WASTE BASKET

Bottom

MITER BOX

In farm woodwork it is in most instances unnecessary to plane the side of a board merely to remove the planer marks when the board is already of the required thickness. It is also unnecessary to plane the ends of a board if a good cut has been made with the saw. Much end planing indicates poor sawing, and it is suggested that one who cannot make an end cut on a board so that the end will be square with the side and edge, had better take a piece of scrap lumber and practice sawing until he can produce the desired result with the saw and not be required to fix it up with the plane. The result of each saw cut should be carefully analyzed and the error traced to its cause and overcome by direction thru the muscles of hand and arm.

To do this requires skill, care and time. The miter box is a means of accomplishing the same result in less time, without skill or care. For the sake of time and convenience it is recommended that it be used only after one has acquired the skill to saw an end square at every attempt. If lie does not acquire the skill but depends on the mitre box entirely, he will need to take the box with him wherever skill is required. It is easier to carry the skill.

WASTE BASKET

A waste basket with solid sides is to be preferred to one made of slats, as it is more likely to fulfill the purpose of the basket which is to hold waste. The bottom should project enough to reduce to a minimum the possibility of the basket tipping over. Stock %" thick, if it is available, is heavy enough for the sides. Cypress, basswood or other soft wood free from knots, being lighter than the hardwood, is to be preferred. Both sides of the stock should be planed smooth and lightly sanded, drawing the sandpaper lengthwise of the grain of the wood only. The basket may be finished by applying two coats of shellac. Allow the first coat at least 24 hours to dry before the second coat is applied.

Fig. 9. Waste Basket of Wood.

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Seed Corn Testing Box

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Seed Corn Rack

SEED CORN TESTING BOX

Lumber Required

Any softwood lumber may be used, though cypress is preferable as it is affected least by change of moisture content. Matched flooring is desirable for the bottom as it will hold the moisture better than unmatched lumber, but any lumber will do if the edges are jointed smooth.

Hardware Required

8 1 %" No. 9 flat head bright wood screws for corners.

24 1 Va" No. 8 flat head bright wood screws for floor.

3 doz. 8d. finishing nails for assembling box.

Stock Bill

Pieces Dimensions Use

4 il"x9"x3' 0" Floor

Directions

It is not necessary that boards exactly 9" wide be used for the floor. Any width of boards at hand will do just as well.

A cheaper method of fastening the floor to the sills is that of using 6d. common nails instead of the screws. These nails will need to be clinched as they are 2" long, which is %" longer than the thickness of the sill and floor.

SEED CORN RACK

Stock Bill

Pieces Dimensions Use

2 irx4"x3'5%" Uprights

1 Jt"x4"x3'0" Bottom

2 H"x4"xl6" Feet

Hardware: 50 yds. No. 18 annealed wire (3 coils of stove pipe wire).

8 No. 9 flat head bright wood screws.

10 IVz" No. 8 flat head bright wood screws..

68 3d fine shingle nails.

Directions

It should be noted that the top is set into the upright at top 3/16". This makes a shoulder for the top to rest on instead of being supported entirely by screws.

In fastening the wire, begin by fastening the wire securely to the nail at the lower corner and then draw the wire as indicated by the arrow points. Use the pliers and draw the wire tight. In placing the wire the opposite way it should be woven above and below the first wires, this will hold all wires more rigid.

Use of Rack and Testing Box

The rows are numbered at the top and lettered at the left so that any ear of corn in the rack may be specified as 1A, IB, 2C, 3D, 8F, 12A etc.

Mark a cloth checkerboard fashion into 3" squares and number and letter the squares as on the rack.

Place about 2" of sawdust in the testing box, moisten it and cover it with the checkered cloth. Place six seeds from space 1A on the rack o

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Center of g holea g from edge

a round iron rod

a round iron rod

Center of s hole & from edge

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ADJUSTABLE WAGON JACK

in square 1A in the box. Place six seeds from each ear in the corresponding square on the cloth in the box.

Cover the seeds with another cloth and spread 1" of damp sawdust over the top. This top covering is easier to handle if made into a sawdust pad 1" thick.

Poor ears may be located by this method and discarded.

ADJUSTABLE WAGON JACK

Stock Bill

Lumber: Oak, maple or other hardwood.

Pieces Dimensions Use

3 %"x6"xl4" Base

2 7/8"x4"x26" Posts

2 %"x%"xlO" Guides for lever bolt

2 carriage bolts %"x5" with washers to bolt posts to base. 1 machine bolt %"x31/&" with two washers, fulcrum for lever. 1 machine bolt with two washers for holding rod to posts.

1 piece of iron %"x%"x8" to place on top of lever at axle end. 1 piece of iron rod %"x3' 4".

4 flat head wood screws No. 7 to fasten iron at top of lever. 6 flat head wood screws IV2" No. 9 to fasten guides for lever bolt to posts.

A machine bolt WxSW may be used as a fulcrum for the lever. In that event W holes must be made instead of %".

Fig. 10. Wagon Jack.

TAKE-DOWN HORSE FOR TABLES, CRATES, ETC.

Stock Bill

Pieces Dimensions Use

2 *§"x6"x8%" Aprons 20 fíat head screws 1V2" No. 8.

Directions

This take-clown horse is planned to be used where supports are needed only temporarily, e. g., tables for picnics, church suppers, bazaars, fairs, etc. Its advantage over a solidly assembled horse is that it may be taken apart and stored in small space when not in use.

For laying off the slant at the ends of the legs the T bevel is set at 12" on the blade and 3%" on the tongue of the steel square.

It may be noted in the detail drawings that notches are cut 011 both sides of the top member at points 5" from the ends so as to leave the top V2" thick at those points. After the legs are fastened together with the aprons, a slot is cut V2" wide and 4" deep at top of legs. This permits the top to slip into the slot and holds the horse rigid.

Fig-. 11. Take Down Horse.

• FARM WOODWORK

SAW HORSE

Stock Bill

Lumber:

Pieces Dimensions Use

2 if"x5%"x3'0" Sides

4 il"x334"x24" Legs

2 l%"x5iV'x5ir Braces

2 irx4"xll Vi" Aprons

Hardware: 24 flat head bright wood screws No. 10.

20 flat head bright wood screws IW No. 9.

Directions

1. Reduce all pieces to'dimensions as called for in the stock bill.

2. For laying out the bevel at ends of the legs, set the T bevel at 6" on the blade and 1-1/16" on the tongue of the steel square and draw lines across the sides of the legs.

3. To lay out the slant at the ends of the legs set the T bevel at 6" on the blade and 1-9/16" on the tongue of the steel square and draw lines across the edges of the legs.

4. To make the aprons fit tight against the legs, bevel the outside edges of the legs with the T bevel set at 9" on the blade and on the tongue of the steel square.

5. Fasten the sides to the braces with three 1%" No. 10 flat head screws at each end of each piece.

6. Fasten the legs to the sides with five V-fa' No. 9 flat head screws in each leg.

7. Fasten the aprons by using three IV2" No. 9 flat head screws at each end of each piece.

Fig. 12. Saw Horse.

Detail of Clamp

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