Directions

1. Reduce all pieces to finished dimensions.

2. Set the T bevel at 1" on the blade and 3011 the tongue of the steel square and lay out both ends of all standards, and remove the stock to line with the cross-cut saw.

3. With the T bevel set at the same angle as for the standards, lay out a dado 3/16" deep for each end of each step on the inside of each main standard at the measurements shown on the drawing and remove the stock with a %" or %" chisel.

4. Using the T bevel as set for the above lay out the ends of the cleats and remove the stock to line with the saw.

5. Lay off the upper end of the upper rod braces with the T bevel set as for the standards and remove stock to line with the saw.

5. Cut a slant to the lower ends of the upper rod braces as shown on the drawing so that they may be fastened to the standards with screws. Remove stock with saw and smooth with plane.

7. Round the upper end of the brace. To do this, draw a center line lengthwise of the stock on both sides and on this center line swing an arc with a lVfc" radius 1x/2" from the end. Remove stock with saw and smooth with chisel.

8. Set the T bevel at 2" on the blade and 4y8" on the tongue of the steel square and lay out the lower end of the brace. Remove the stock to line with the saw.

9. The cheek cut on the inside of the bottom standards at top is laid out by use of the steel square. Lay the square on an edge of the stock, using the figures 12" and Place the figures 12" on the outside edge at the end and the figure 4^" on the same edge down on the stock and draw the line. Lay out on both edges. Remove the stock with the saw.

10. Bend the irons for the braces as shown in the drawing. They may be bent cold if securely held in a metal vise.

11. Centerpunch for the holes and bore %" holes at upper ends and I4" holes at the lower ends of the braces, using the drill press or breast drill.

12. Bore a %" hole thru the upper end of the brace at center to receive the rod.

13. The first parts to be assembled are the steps and main standards. Use two 1%" No. 9 or 10 flat head wood screws at each joint. Bore holes for the screws, using a twist drill, thru the standards and countersink the holes. Clamp the parts firmly in place and force the screws into the ends of the steps.

14. Fasten the bottom step to the lower ends of the front standards by use of two 1%" No. 9 or 10 wood screws.

15. Fasten the bottom standards to the ends of the bottom step by using two l3/4" No. 9 or 10 wood screws for each joint and three similar screws to secure the upper ends of the bottom standards to the sides of the upper standard.

16. The top is fastened by using eight screws, four at each end, two thru the top and into the top end of the standards and two into the upper rod brace.

17. Fasten the cleats to the upper rod brace and standards by use of eight IV2" No. 8 or 9 wood screws as shown in the drawing.

18. Bore a %" hole thru the cleat and upper rod brace at each side at point shown in the drawing and assemble brace, iron braces and rod. It may be noted that the rod is threaded at both ends. This is easier to make than to forge a head on a rod and is quite as satisfactory.

19. Bore a hole thru the brace and fasten the iron braces to brace with V^" x 1%" bolt.

20. Stand the ladder in upright position with the top level, measure length of chain required for position indicated in the drawing and fasten to step and back standard with stove bolts.

21. Finish the ladder by applying two coats of exterior paint, allowing the first coat several days to become thoroly dry.

Double Deck Berry Stand (for twelve boxes)

Berry ├┤iand (for six boxes)

Fig. 27. Double Deck Berry Stand.
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