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WOOD BASKET

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16"

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Drawer guide f\q.C

Drawer side

Drawer front' (top edge)

Kitchen Table

KITCHEN TABLE

The frames of kitchen tables are usually made of hard wood, maple, birch or oak. Maple or birch make a very desirable top though bass-wood is used for this purpose extensively and is very satisfactory.

The legs of kitchen tables are frequently 2*4" or 21/2// square at top and tapered at bottom. The drawing calls for legs which are 1%" x 2V2" at top and tapered on the two edges only so as to be 1%" square at the bottom. This has been done to make it possible to saw the legs out of an ordinary 2" plank.

The sides and ends are fastened to the legs with mortise and tenon joints,. Fig. A. The joints should be glued with hot glue. The corners are further stiffened with braces as shown in the detail drawing, Fig. A. These braces should be fastened to the side and end pieces with at least three flat head wood screws at each end of each brace.

A piece 16" long is cut out of the front side piece for a drawer front. This piece is then shaped at the ends as shown in Fig. B.

The drawer sides are W x 4" x 16" and are provided with two, V2" x 1" x 16" cleats fastened to the outside as shown in Fig. C. Quarter inch stock is used for the drawer bottom. If means are at hand for plowing a groove on the insides of the side pieces wide and 1/4" from the bottom edge of the side pieces it is desirable to do so. Otherwise the bottom is merely nailed in place.

Two pieces of stock yg" x 4" are extended between sides at right and left of the drawer respectively. They are fastened to the sides of the table by use of blocks and screws as shown in Fig. D. A cleat x 1" x 16" is fastened to the inside of the two guides. This cleat fits between the two cleats which are on the outside of the drawer and holds the drawer in place.

The drawer need not be provided with a draw pull as it is as easily opened by clasping it at the bottom.

The top may be constructed of three or more boards.

These boards are carefully jointed, held even with dowel pins and glued.

The top is held to the table by use of blocks as indicated in Fig. E. At least ten such blocks should be used—two at each end and three at each side.

When the table is assembled the legs, sides and ends should be scraped clean with a cabinet scraper and then sanded. The top should also be cleaned with sandpaper.

The top of the table is left white. The rest of the table may be finished with two coats of shellac* or one coat of shellac and a coat of varnish.

¿pitch, use 12" for run and e"for rise

Scotcut

Cover with roofinq

paper or shingles I !

Plumb cut

Rafter

Corner post

Plumb cut

Rafter

Corner post

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DOG HOUSE

Materia! Required

Pieces

Dimensions y8 "x4"x2' 6"

2"x4"x24"

%"x5}4"x2' 7% %"x5%"x2f 6" %"x5}i"xl0" %"x3"x23"

%"x5%"x2' 6" 2"x4"xl8"

Sides Ends

Corner posts Rafters

Ends at front Door posts Roof boards

Sills Floor

2 pieces of prepared roofing 3' 8" long or Vz bundle Of shingles.

If shingles are used two pieces of wood %"x4"x3' 6" are required for a saddle board and also V2 lb. of shingle nails.

1 lb. 6d common nails.

A quantity of outside paint.

Before starting the construction of the framework of the dog house it is suggested that the subject of rafter framing be studied. Obtain a piece of 2" x 4" or 2" x 6" x 10, 12, 14 or 16 ft. long. Select a building with any span of roof and decide on a pitch of roof. Lay out the rafter as shown in the plate on rafter framing. Do not cut the rafter unless you are actually going to use the piece in a building. In like manner lay off the rafter on the same piece for other pitches and spans.

When thoroly familiar with the use of the steel square for laying out rafters, lay out the rafter for the dog house as indicated on the drawing of the dog house.

Matched lumber is preferable for the construction of a dog house. It may be noted that not all matched lumber is of the same width. If the lumber which is being used is other than %" thick and 5%" face, as called for in the stock bill, it is suggested that a new stock bill be made out.

If shingles are used, a double layer is used for the first row at the eaves. They may project over the roof boards one inch at the bottom and also at the ends. They are laid 4" or 4V2" to the weather- and should break joints at least 1". The points projecting over the peak are sawed off and the peak finished with a saddle board.

If roofing paper is used it should be bent over the ends and edges of the roof and nailed with roofing nails spaced not more than 2" apart.

Directions

Finish the house by applying at least two coats of paint.

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MILKING STOOL

Stock Bill

Lumber: Any soft wood.

Pieces . Dimensions Use

1 %"x7"xl9}4" Platform

1 9i"x9"xl0" Seat

1 %"xl}4"x7" Cleat underneath at front.

Hardware: 2 doz. 1W No. 9 fiat head bright wood screws.

Directions

In getting out the sides get out a piece %" x 7V2" x 20"; draw a eenterline lengthwise of the stock and at a point on the centerline equidistant from ends swing a circle with the compass set at 2y2" radius. Draw a line across the stock thru the center of the circle. Cut the board in two on line just drawn. Saw arcs with turning saw, keyhole saw or coping saw.

In getting out the front piece be sure and cut it so that the grain of the wood runs vertically in the finished stool, i. e., 7" across the grain and 41/£" lengthwise of the grain.

The ends of the platform are beveled. The T bevel is set at 19 on the blade and 1" on the tongue of the steel square.

In assembling, three screws are placed thru the seat into the top of each side piece; three screws secure the sides to the platform and three are used to fasten the front to the front end of the platform. Five screws are used to fasten the top cleat at the front end—three into the front and two into the platform. Four screws are used to fasten the 1*4" cleat to the front on the inside.

A MILKING STOOL

Material

1 piece of any soft wood, preferably white pine, %"xl0"x5' 1". 12 flat head bright wood screws 134" No. 10. 8 flat head bright wood screws No. 8.

Tools

Plane, try square, cross cut and rip saws, chisel, 5/32" drill, brace, countersink, screwdriver, T bevel.

Stock

Pieces Dimensions Use

%"x9%"x20%" Main brace

%"x9%"xl0" Back end

%"x3A"xlO" Front cross brace

%"xl0"xl0" Pail platform

%"xl0"xl0" Seat

Directions

1. Reduce all pieces to finished dimensions.

2. Draw a line across the front end of the main brace 3" from the bottom edge; locate a point on each side 4" from the lower edge and 10" from the line across the end and connect the points just located with the line across the end.

3. Draw a line across the upper edge i)1/^" from the back end and connect the line with the points on the side of the board. Remove the stock to line with the rip and crosscut saws.

4. Lay out a cross half-lap joint in the upper edge of the front part of the main brace and the lower edge of the front cross brace as wide as the thickness of the stock and one-half the width of the stock as shown in the detail drawing and remove the stock with the cross-cut saw and chisel as shown in the detail drawing.

5. Set the T bevel at the angle which is made by the top and slant edge of the main brace, and lay out the ends of the braces. Remove the stock to line with the saw. , .

6. Bore holes for the screws with the 3y drill at positions shown in the drawings, countersink the holes and fasten all members in position.

Fig. 14. Milking Stool.
TR Hole

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WREN HOUSE.

ROBIN NESTING 5HELD

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6"

Light wire

Heavy wire flower pot

WREN H0U5D

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